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Sempre que se planeja uma viagem, criamos altas expectativas, valorizamos e visualizamos muito os aspectos positivos e as coisas boas que poderemos experimentar. E, muitas vezes, esquecemos de dar atenção aos detalhes e aos riscos importantes que podem nos atrapalhar — ou constituir empecilhos e desconfortos em nossa jornada.
A viagem para realizar o trekking de subida do Monte Roraima é uma aventura que exige muito planejamento e cuidado, além do esperado otimismo e ansiedade. De fato, não é uma atividade trivial: envolve perigos, contratempos, dores e privações; entretanto, a premiação é das mais maravilhosas que já tive oportunidade de experimentar. Todo o trabalho duro é recompensado com uma grande experiência de belezas naturais, mistérios espirituais e transformações internas.
Antes de tudo, vale contextualizar: o Monte Roraima faz parte de uma série de tepuis — amplas formações montanhosas e rochosas em formato de chapadões — na região de fronteira entre Venezuela, Brasil e Guiana. Ele é margeado de um lado pela Floresta Amazônica e, de outro, pela Gran Sabana venezuelana — espécie de cerrado mais úmido e abundante que o nosso do Centro Oeste. Estes tepuis, diferentes dos chapadões do nosso cerrado (em MG, GO, BA, MT etc.) constituem grandes formações com ecossistema próprio, de amplas dimensões e com altura superior. O ponto mais alto do Monte Rorâima alcança impressionantes 2.800 metros.
Por sua magnanimidade, e maior facilidade de acesso, o Monte Roraima é o destino mais popular desses tepuis; são vários na região! Inclusive, em um deles despenca o Salto Angel, considerada a maior cachoeira do mundo. Essa é uma região extremamente diversa do que vemos pelos trekkings convencionais realizados no Brasil é muito remota, de clima instável e geografia e ecologia muito variadas.
O passeio tem partida da Venezuela. É necessário tomar um voo até Boa Vista, de lá apanhar um táxi até Pacaraima, na fronteira, e então outro táxi até Santa Helena, já na Venezuela. Daí, segue-se para a entrada do parque, onde há aglomerados de indígenas locais. É proibido ir sem guia, e, honestamente, seria inviável ir sem eles — que, além de nos guiar, carregam equipamentos como barracas, fogão, comida etc. É possível planejar tudo isso daqui de São Paulo mesmo, contatando uma agência especializada que já organiza todos esses transportes e guias.
Saindo da entrada do parque, tem início o trekking. No primeiro dia, a trilha segue até o acampamento, ponto inicial. São 14 km por um terreno de terra e pequenas pedras, fácil de caminhar, sem muitas subidas íngremes. Já é possível enxergar ao longe vários tepuis, e os maiores deles: o Kukenan e o Monte Roraima, que fazem um belo visual e estimulam a caminhada debaixo de sol, calor e mosquitos — e ainda carregando uma pesada mala preparada para 7 dias de aventura.
O primeiro acampamento é bastante rústico, ainda que seja o mais preparado da viagem — não há, desde a partida, qualquer conexão de telefonia ou internet, sem eletricidade ou banheiro algum. Para se lavar e beber água há um simpático riacho; ele se forma de uma grande cachoeira que cai de um dos tepuis. Um riacho de água amena e pedras lisas.
As barracas são montadas pelos guias e carregadores e são eles que também preparam a comida — com a fome formada na caminhada, tudo é muito gostoso!
No segundo dia, vamos em busca do acampamento base do Monte, já ao pé da montanha. No caminho, rios refrescantes e uma subida constante e cansativa. O acampamento base já nos provê com uma belíssima vista da Gran Sabana e com visual estupendo da face rochosa do Monte. A temperatura já varia bastante e a noite cai num friozinho não irrelevante.
O terceiro dia é uma provação de esforço, sobe-se 1 km verticalmente numa trilha de 4 km, ou seja, muita piramba para cima, agarrando-se em raízes e rochas para ajudar. Mas, ao contemplar a vista que se abre, grande alegria invade o cansado corpo, estimulando a chegada ao topo.
No topo, há um planeta completamente diverso do que se viu no caminho: solo rochoso e com pouca vegetação, que parece imitar o solo marciano ou lunar. De fato, com tanta subida, já parecemos estar mais perto desses astros e planetas.
Há vários passeios no Monte, onde acampamos por 3 noites numa espécie de gruta. É impressionante notar a volatilidade da variação do clima, mais maluco que o de São Paulo. De dia chega a fazer quase 30 graus debaixo de um sol de rachar; de madrugada, a sensação térmica fica abaixo de zero — o banho nas fossas gélidas não soam muito convidativos…
Todos os perrengues são compensados pela beleza e pela magia do lugar. O visual da face SE, de onde se contempla o vale entre o Monte e o Kukenan, com suas diversas cachoeiras e rios que se formam em meio a floresta fechada, pintou uma imagem que dificilmente se apagará da minha retina.
Histórias de espíritos e causos, contados pelos indígenas locais, que misturam espanhol e português, dão uma dimensão do quanto sagrado é aquele lugar. E, por isso, mereça se manter remoto e quase intocado. A aragem do sagrado é refletida nas incontáveis estrelas brilhando à noite, que se misturam ao brilho de outros incontáveis vaga-lumes.
Foi emocionante a caminhada de 25 km de ida e volta do ponto de tríplice fronteira — e, depois, curioso olhar no mapa como parece um lugar no meio do nada.
Além das belezas, das privações da sociedade moderna e da contemplação pura e essencial da natureza, a experiência traz grandes reflexões e mudanças internas. Percebe-se quão ínfimos somos ao poder da natureza e à vastidão do tempo — que lá parece passar mais devagar.
O corpo voltou arruinado, quilos a menos, picadas de mosquito, queimaduras do sol, intestino totalmente agredido pelo excesso de arepas fritas e falta de fibras. Entretanto, o bem à alma, a contemplação e a paz com que a vida é premiada são impagáveis. É uma experiência, antes de tudo, mística, profunda, reveladora e sagrada. Mas não pense que os perrengues não irão ocorrer, esteja fisicamente preparado e planeje todas suas necessidades. O Monte Roraima não é um trekking convencional!
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