Buenos Aires de Perto

Nos anos 90, o aeroporto internacional lotava com passageiros indo e vindo de Miami, o destino da moda na época. Recentemente, este posto foi assumido por Buenos Aires e, como todo modismo, provoca reações prós e contras quase na mesma proporção. A capital argentina fascina muitos e é indiferente a tantos outros que lá decidem passar um feriado ou mesmo as férias inteiras. Afinal, o que esperar desta cidade? Disposto a viajar sozinho, no fim de 2006, decidi ir descobrir a resposta, que não revelarei. Acredito que todos que têm vontade devem ir e descobrir a sua própria Buenos Aires. Prefiro, ao contrário, manter-me nos aspectos que podem colaborar com uma viagem que valha a pena.

Em primeiro lugar, se a intenção é conhecer a cidade, é preciso desfazer um mal entendido. Da boca de um francês que conheci, Buenos Aires não lembra a Europa, como pregam muitos guias. “Madri, de muito longe,” foi o veredicto dele. Que seja dita a verdade: se você quer conhecer a Europa, junte mais dinheiro e vá para Paris, Ibiza ou Praga.

Também me sinto inclinado a desfazer outra idéia errônea. Visitar Buenos Aires não será como trocar o caos de São Paulo pelo dela. Apesar de serem duas grandes cidades, elas têm ritmos totalmente diferentes. Em muitas das minhas caminhadas (do cemitério da Recoleta ao Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, do centro ao Caminito…) eu me deparei com parques simpáticos, sem grades como o nosso Ibirapuera, onde fiz pausas para ler um pouco, ou simplesmente refletir, algo que em São Paulo me parece inconcebível. E nem vale a pena chegar numa casa noturna antes das duas da manhã (quando as paulistanas já estão no ápice). Lá, elas abrem à 1h e esquentam depois das 3h. Até esse horário, aliás, as ruas estão ainda tão movimentadas que você acreditaria ser nove da noite aqui em São Paulo. Há táxis – realmente baratos – por toda parte e muitas pessoas terminam suas refeições tarde, já que chegam aos restaurantes depois das dez. Outra peculiaridade da capital argentina são suas ruas “gigooooontes” (como diria um amigo): muitas vezes é impossível ir a pé de um ponto a outro. Só arrisque na Avenida Corrientes que tem muitos outlets, do número 4.700 para baixo, até o shopping Abasto. Para fazer compras e agradar aos consumistas, é uma caminhada perfeita.

Para os fãs de pontos turísticos famosos, a minha recomendação é ir depois de 2008. Por quê? Simplesmente porque só então termina a restauração do Teatro Colón. Imperdível, essa ópera está entre as 5 mais importantes do mundo por causa de sua acústica. Além de ver algumas apresentações, também vale a pena fazer o tour guiado – para quem não entende muito do assunto, é a oportunidade de saber detalhes desde a construção até sua importância social.

É preciso, porém, fazer justiça àqueles que se sentiram indiferentes quando voltaram de sua viagem. Buenos Aires tem alguns ajustes a serem feitos para receber estrangeiros. O mais urgente de todos é a limpeza. A cidade tem papéis, garrafas plásticas e “presentes caninos” por todos os cantos. Você poderá testar sua coordenação motora ao desviar deles e sair com os calçados ilesos.

O melhor conselho é ir para tirar suas próprias conclusões. Destino da moda ou não, alguns lugares merecem sua visita: o Caminito (bairro bem colorido, com tangos na rua e bons restaurantes), a feira de San Telmo aos domingos, a Casa Rosada e a Plaza de Mayo (obrigatórios pela importância política), o cemitério da Recoleta (esculturas e homenagens fazem dele um Mausoléu do Halicarnasso atual), o Jardim Japonês, e, claro, o Malba (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), para quem se interessa por arte.

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