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Maravilhas da Região Sul

Maravilhas da Região Sul

Foz do Iguaçu, Joinville, Vale Europeu, Serra do Rio do Rastro, cânions de Santa Catarina. Foi mais ou menos esse o percurso de uma linda viagem que fiz no último mês de julho. Rodamos quase 4 mil quilômetros de carro, saindo de São Paulo e passando por boa parte dos estados do Paraná e Santa Catarina.

Entrando no estado do Paraná, rumo a Foz do Iguaçu, a paisagem recorrente eram as vastas áreas de cultivo de cana, a perder de vista. Quando dava para entrever a vegetação original, era muito gostoso: terra vermelha e paisagens lindas. Jantamos em Maringá e dormimos por lá mesmo. Fazia muito frio e chovia. No dia seguinte seguimos viagem pela costa oeste do estado, passando por lugarejos de nome curioso: Sussuí, Goioerê, Piquirivaí, Pensamento, Corbélia, Matelândia… Chegamos à Foz do Iguaçu sob chuva e frio. Nas ruas, carros brasileiros, argentinos e paraguaios convivendo, pela proximidade com as fronteiras.

Durante nossa estadia em Foz, o termômetro não ultrapassou 7 graus. Era frio de doer os ossos. Mesmo com a chuva, fomos conhecer a usina, Itaipu binacional (como é chamada, por ser metade brasileira e metade paraguaia). É monstruosa a proporção de tudo ali: barragem, turbinas, quantidade de concreto usado para desviar, conter e canalizar a força da água. Descobri que antes da construção da usina, o rio Paraná formava, na quele trecho, um cânion! Fizemos também o passeio que leva ao Paraguai (na verdade a um shopping em Ciudad del este). Bom para quem quer comprar eletrônicos e roupas de marca… O melhor de tudo foi conhecer as cataratas do Iguaçu. O Parque Nacional tem uma superestrutura, com ônibus internos que carregam os turistas para as várias atrações. Além de ver e “sentir” as cataratas, fizemos um passeio pelo rio num bote, até chegar embaixo de uma das quedas d’água. Para quem gosta de muita adrenalina, deve ser ótimo. Mas não curti tanto os 80 Km/h de velocidade que a embacação atinge para vencer as águas, nem o banho gelado naquele frio…

De lá, prosseguimos viagem para Santa Catarina, rumo a Joinville, onde prestigiamos um pouco o Festival de Dança que acontece anualmente. O melhor da estadia foi ficar na casa de amigos, onde pudemos ter contato com os hábitos locais. Descendentes de alemães, eles nos mostraram algumas iguarias, como o koch kase, um queijo fundido pastoso que é passado no pão; o muss, um tipo de melado feito com frutas; a “sopa de abóbora”, uma sobremesa simples e deliciosa que a oma (avó) do nosso anfitrião havia preparado; além de beber Gengibirra, um refrigerante de gengibre local, e comer sagu de vinho. Fomos ainda à praia em Itapoá, curtindo a bela mata atlântica que há na região, entre outros passeios.

Agora se aproximava a última parte da viagem, onde desceríamos para a fronteira com o Rio Grande do Sul, para conhecer o cânion do Itaimbezinho, na área do Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra. Nosso amigo sugeriu um percurso especial, que fizemos à risca: primeiro passamos pelo Valeu Europeu, na região de Pomerode, onde conhecemos a arquitetura Enxaimel, trazida pelos primeiros imigrantes alemães. A região é belíssima, e as casas são muitíssimo bem cuidadas, com jardins impecáveis. Depois passamos por Urubici, que também é muito simpática, e São Joaquim, onde há muitas plantações de maçã. Estranhei ver árvores tão ressequidas e sem folhas, mas uma moradora explicou que estavam em período de dormência, quando ficam praticamente irreconhecíveis. A parte alta desse percurso foi descer a Serra do rio do rastro, do topo da qual se tem uma vista tão longínqua que alcança o mar!

Chegamos finalmente à Praia Grande, na região dos cânions, Serra do faxinal. Ficamos em uma pousada simples, bem cuidada, de um casal simpático e prosa. Ele é gaúcho, e ela, catarinense. Comemos ótima comida caseira, tomamos chimarrão, conversamos… E conhecemos três cânions: o do Itaimbezinho, dos Índios coroados e Fortaleza. Infelizmente, o tempo era pouco, mas a região merece ao menos uma semana para ser bem aproveitada! No penúltimo dia, fechamos nosso passeio com chave de ouro, fazendo uma trilha de nível difícil mas muito compensadora: caminhamos pelo leito do Rio do boi, por dentro do cânion. Pisando o tempo todo em pedras, muitas vezes escorregadias, e atravessando as águas do rio diversas vezes, de uma margem a outra, passamos 7 horas naquele santuário, cercados pelos paredões gigantescos de rocha, onde se formam várias cachoeiras.

No fim do passeio, molhada até a cintura e cansada, uma dor na perna me fez mancar. O que não tirou, nem de longe, o prazer daquela jornada. Aos amantes da natureza, conhecer os cânions é um prato cheio.

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