Santiago do Chile e Atacama, ai meu San Pedro do Atacama!
![Santiago do Chile e Atacama, ai meu San Pedro do Atacama!](https://media.pedacodavila.com.br/2020/06/724ee96b-5e3c8783ec5ce-cidadao-do-mundo-193.jpg)
Em meio a esses tempos conturbados, e cheios de sobressaltos, fechei meus olhos e me joguei em um dos meus maiores prazeres, viajar! Como boa geminiana que sou, adoro conhecer lugares, pessoas, culturas, comidas, histórias, e no meio disso tudo procuro sempre conhecer ainda mais um bocado de mim mesma, uma espécie de desafio interior, e dessa vez não foi diferente.
Organizei o tempo, a grana (tenho cofrinho para esses fins), os compromissos, e consegui, paralelamente, a luxuosa companhia de uma amiga para dividir a viagem, as aflições, o câmbio da moeda, las gracias de hablar español, muitas vezes descambados em portunhol, e uma boa risada, assim foi, nos lançamos nesta deliciosa aventura, por esse mundão a fora, lindo, velho e sem porteira.
Primeiro foi a escolha da América do Sul, assim o Chile foi eleito, além de
Santiago, a capital, considero bom conhecer, o que mais explorar no país?
Entre o Norte e o Sul, a força do desejo de conhecer o deserto do Atacama falou mais alto, e o Sul ficou para outra ocasião. Chega de salamaleiques, vamos logo a viagem.
No voo noturno para Santiago o primeiro impacto foi a travessia da cordilheira dos Andes, o comandante informa apertem os cintos, área de instabilidade, e lá surgem pertinho do avião (ele não baixou) aqueles topos permanentemente gelados, uma sequência de montanhas imponentes (em média chegam a 4000
metros de altitude, o Aconcágua tem 6900), parecem uma guardiães gigantes
observando quem ou o que passa por seus vales e picos nevados, uma
fronteira natural. Na volta, de dia, pude observa-las melhor, paisagens
indiscritíveis como a região de Mostazal, Codegua, San Jose de Maipu-
Cordillera, San Carlos, Rivadavia, enfim um escândalo de belezas, com lagos
azuis no alto de montanhas, onde não se tem sinal de vida humana, traçados
de rios cortando a silhueta vulcânica, prontos a terremotos e tsunamis, no caso,
de emoções.
Na capital, a cidade plana que foi explorada em uma semana, na maior parte
do tempo a pé, por suas ruas, seus bairros, mercados (de peixe e de frutas,
ambos imperdíveis), parques, avenidas largas, vinículas (a Undurraga é bem
bacana), museus, o da Memória e dos Direitos Humanos, remete aos tempos
da ditadura, e ao fatídico 11 de setembro de 1973, dia em que o governo do
presidente social-democrata, Salvador Allende (Valparaíso, 1908 – Santiago,
1973) sofreu o golpe de estado que durou de 1973 a 1990, praticado pelo
comandante da forças armadas, Augusto Pinochet (Valparaíso, 1915 –
Santiago, 2006), o acervo é uma verdadeira aula de história sobre o citado
período, considero imperdível, para quem gosta de conhecer mais a fundo o
país visitado, vale cada passo.
Há na cidade dois cerros (colinas) o de San Cristobal, um dos pontos mais
altos da cidade, um parque que conta com trilhas que atravessam do bairro
Bellavista a Providencia, para subir há um funicular, uma espécie de bondinho
de plano inclinado que leva ao topo de onde se tem uma vista ampla da cidade,
e de onde pode-se pegar o teleférico que sobrevoa todo o parque, vale o
passeio.
O outro é o cerro Santa Lucia, declarado monumento histórico nacional em
1983, primeiro chamava-se Huelén, que significa “dor, sofrimento”, na lingúa
nativa, e onde era o acampamento mapuche, povo originário, que resistiu
bravamente a chegada dos espanhóis, até a cidade de Santiago ser fundada,
em 13 de dezembro de 1541, pelo “conquistador” espanhol Pedro de Valdivia
(Espanha, 1497 – Chile, 1553). O parque oferece trilhas, e quem consegue
chegar ao topo ganha de presente uma vista de 360 graus da cidade, e a vista
da cordilheira, isso quando a poluição, que é represada pela própria permite.
Este cerro se encontra no bairro Lastarria, bairro cheio de charme com suas
calçadas repletas de cafés, restaurantes, lojas alternativas, músicos de rua,
tatuadores, e as famosas empanadas que se encontram por todo lado, ali tava
em casa.
Na porção sudeste da região metropolitana de Santiago, literalmente aos pés
da cordilheira, em San José de Maipo se apresentou o Cajon del Maipo, uma
espécie de canyon, entre vales e montanhas geladas e vulcânicas, por onde
confluem o rio Maipo, El Yeso e El Colorado, e serpenteando por essa riqueza
de lugar se chega ao Embalse El Yeso, represa inaugurada em 1964,
responsável por abastecer cerca de 70% da população de Santiago, levando
em consideração que o país não tem muita água, alguns desses rios carregam
muitos minerais vulcânicos inviabilizando o uso da água, imagine que as águas
aproveitáveis são as do degelo, e a pouca chuva no país, mas isso vou falar a
partir da segunda metade da viagem que foi conhecer o tão sonhado deserto
do Atacama.
Encerrando a primeira parte da viagem era a vez de Valparaíso, capital da V
região do Chile, a parte histórica declarada patrimônio da humanidade, em
2003, pela UNESCO, e sede do poder legislativo do Chile, segundo contaram,
uma tentativa de não permitir a concentração de poder só na capital, Santiago,
logo pensei no museu da memória e acho que entendi os motivos. Para falar a
verdade só gostei mesmo da parte histórica, e até o museu-casa de Pablo
Neruda (Parral, Chile 1904 – Santiago, Chile 1973), onde o poeta passou seus
últimos dias, não é lá essas coisas, vale pela importância do poeta, claro.
De lá direto até a comuna de Viñas del Mar, e ai sim o encontro com o pacífico
(que no porto de Valparaíso deu xabú) explodiu em um azul marinho profundo,
forte, frio, gelado, um balneário sedutor, só não houve muito tempo para
conhecer, um almoço a beira mar e um copo de suco de amora dulcíssimo.
Passando pelo museu Fonck, de acervo arqueológico e histórico, há na entrada
um Moai original, levado para lá mais ou menos na década de 1950 do século
XX, ele está sendo reivindicado de volta para Ilha de Páscoa, há uma
controversia na forma como esse Moai chegou ali, uns dizem que foi
presenteado para a comuna, e tendo a considerar mais correto o retorno.
Depois desse rolê por Santiago e arredores é chegada a hora de ir ao
Atacama, refazer malas, a parte nada fácil foi escolher as roupas adequadas
ao calor/frio/calor. Deixei a maior parte das coisas em Santiago, afinal voltaria
para lá, e parti com minha amiga para a aventura Atacamenha.
O voo ao meio dia levaria duas horas e meia para pousar em Calama, de lá um
transfer, mais uma horinha de viagem, para enfim chegar em meu San Pedro
de Atacama, e ele não fez por menos, recepção de braços abertos, com seus
13% de umidade no ar, e sua principal via, a rua Caracoles, com sua
iluminação de lanternas, cachorros grandões e peludos (muuuitos), bares e
restaurantes, o comércio, um lugarejo cheio de graça, e gente de toda parte do
mundo.
Os dias seguintes foram no Vale da Lua, e Vale da Morte, desnudando a
geologia do tempo, da terra antiga, cada pedra, os minerios ali depositados
durante toda uma vida, as temperanças do vento sacudindo a pedra, e
formando dunas de pedras, cobertas de terra vermelha, tons ocres em
contraste com o azul do céu, que termina por misturar-se com as cores do
explosivo por do sol.
Após rodar pelas estradas do deserto, avistando suas famílias de vicuñas
(espécie de camillos), papa léguas, e girar nas curvas ascendentes para
chegar a uma altitude acima dos 4000m, acompanhada dos picos de neves,
surgem as lagunas altiplânicas, Miskanti e Miñiques, silênciosamente azuis e
gélidas, por onde deslizam aves em águas ora liquida, ora prestes a congelar,
tudo rodeado por cerros e vulcões que levam o mesmo nome das lagunas, um
espetáculo a parte. Esse dia se encerrou no Salar do Atacama, com um almoço
preparado pela Scherie, a guia arqueóloga que nos apresentou estas riquezas,
especificamente na reserva dos flamingos, onde novo espetáculo de cores se
deu, na brancura do sal e no brilho de espelhos d’água, estas aves de enormes
pernas, desfilam elegantemente seus tons de rosa, determinados pelos
minúsculos crustáceos dos quais constantemente se alimentam.
No dia seguinte foi a vez do Geyser del Tatio, o maior campo geotérmico da
América do Sul, terceiro maior do mundo, onde a terra esputa água a mais de
80 graus, nas rochas o tom ferrosos e cheiro de enxofre, o espetáculo do vento
sacudindo seus vapores vulcânicos, a uma altitude de 4600m, temperatura a
sete graus, com sensação de menos zero. Neste cenário tomei o banho que,
me tirou às quatro da manhã de casa (me sentia em casa), pelo caminho a
altitude revirou o estomago, só aquietado no mergulho em águas a 30 graus
que brotavam de um dos cantos disputados, da piscina natural, que poucos e
bons tiveram a ousadia de entrar, como orientou o guia, facíl de entrar, a
questão é sair no ambiente adverso, senti o poder do banho.
A penúltima etapa foi a visita ao Salar de Tara, passamos pelo mirante de meu
San Pedro de Atacama, nos aproximamos do vulcão de formato perfeito,
Licancabur (se vê de todo lugar) e seu irmão Juriques, já descabeçado,
provavelmente por alguma erupção (tem uma lenda belissima sobre esses
vulcões).
Outros lugares pelo caminho são o Paso de Jama, divisa com a Bolívia,
Laguna de Quepiaco, Monges de la Pakara, e catedrais de Tara, para chegar a
esses lugares tem que sair da rodovia, seguir pelo deserto, sem sinalização ou
algo que o valha, só umas poucas marcas de pneu, fundamental um motorista
e guia experientes. Lugares com formações rochosas gigantescas que
lembram os Moais da Isla de Páscoa, só que são de terra, esculpidos pela
ação do tempo e do vento, no caminho animais selvagens típicos da região,
vicuñas, raposas.
A última visita foi a Termas de Puritama, por onde escorre o rio Puritama,
formando uma sequencia de piscinas naturais, e pequenas quedas d’águas
quentes, repleta de lithium, um verdadeiro spa natural, a céu aberto, em meio a
um vale de altas montanhas terrosas, um prazer relaxante ao corpo, tão exigido
durante os dias ali vividos, um pouco de conforto antes da partida.
De volta a meu San Pedro de Atacama, um bom sandwich de salmon
defumado, com salada, na Franchuteria, única padaria de gabarito no Chile,
isso no meio das árvores de Rica-Rica, árvore típica de lá, as folhas secas são
usadas para chás, que tem a mesma finalidade que a folha de coca, auxilia nas
altitudes.
O sonho real de estar no deserto do Atacama, esse lugar com 13% de
umidade, onde chove doze dias ao ano, e depende para isso, creia, do bem
estar da amazônia, floresta responsável por este pequeno e rápido tempo de
dilúvio no deserto. Os atacamenhos sabem valorizar a água, não só eles, os/as
chilenos/as tem essa percepção da preciosidade deste liquido.
Final de viagem, um até breve a meu San Pedro de Atacama, a van até
Calama, naquela estrada no meio do deserto, jardins aeólicos com suas pás
gigantes, embarque e voo até Santiago, lá chegando, depois do deserto, até o
ar da capital ficou mais respirável, ônibus/metrô até o hotel, refazer malas,
jantar na Lastarria, e uma boa noite de sonho para encarar a travessia da
cordilheira de volta para casa.
Ficou o gosto de quero mais, agora a partir da Bolivia, do Salar de Uyuni e das trilhas dos vulcões, aguardo os próximos capítulos com a mesma quietude que o deserto apresentou.
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