Marrocos é inesquecível
Eu e uma amiga decidimos conhecer Marrocos, uma aventura que começou no momento em que chegamos à Casablanca. Mas antes foi preciso passar uma hora e meia na fila da imigração, para ter o carimbo no passaporte, milimétricamente alinhado por um oficial, saímos no saguão do aeroporto sem encontrar uma alma viva. Procura daqui, procura dali, um pouco de aflição começando, e nada de encontrar o receptivo que iria nos levar ao hotel.
De repente, percebi que essa ala do aeroporto tem apenas uma porta de saída. Ninguém entra, e quando sai, não pode voltar. Do lado de fora, o caos instalado. Receptivos com plaquinhas na mão misturados a homens e mulheres locais, vestidos com túnicas compridas, pedindo dinheiro. Senti o clima seco num dia maravilhoso de sol e reparei nas pouquíssimas árvores no entorno do aeroporto. Depois de muito esperar, conseguimos chegar no hotel, luxuo-síssimo, revestido em granito preto e lustres reluzentes brilhando em todos os cantos.
Decidimos fazer uma excursão, por conta de tanto ouvirmos sobre turistas mulheres no Marrocos, um país 100% mulçumano, governado por um sistema de monarquia desde o século 8, e onde as famosas histórias: ‘quanto quer por sua amiga? Vinte camelos e meu coração resolvem?’, resistem ao tempo. Lá, cada homem pode ter quatro esposas, desde que tenha dinheiro para sustentá-las.
Num ônibus lotado de brasileiros, portugueses e italianos, partimos para conhecer Casablanca, a maior cidade do Marrocos — e talvez a mais famosa. A dominação francesa no país é refletida em sua arquitetura. A cidade é composta por milhares de prédios baixos com comércios e cafés simpáticos nos térreos. Quase uma Paris, se não fosse a ausência das mulheres nos cafés. Elas estão por toda parte, andando pela cidade com seus vestidos e lenços coloridos, carregando sacolas e crianças no colo.
O guia nos levou à Mesquita de Hassan II, na orla da praia banhada pelo Oceano Atlântico, onde a riqueza de detalhes é impressionante. O trabalho de entalhe na madeira, os mosaicos em cerâmica e as pastilhas e mandalas enchem os olhos. As mesquitas do Marrocos são em tons de verde e branco, que simbolizam a paz. No alto de suas torres, que são quadradas, vemos três esferas de ouro, que representam as três religiões mais importantes: o cristianismo, o judaísmo e o islamismo. Apesar da ‘mensagem’ de paz, não é permitida a entrada de estrangeiros nas mesquitas.
Ainda sobre o tom religioso, Casablanca possui uma catedral católica, construída em 1950. Coincidentemente, a visita foi no domingo, na hora da missa do meio-dia. Percebi que a questão racial é gritante, pois os católicos são negros e os mulçumanos, em sua maioria, são brancos, mesmo estando no Norte da África!
Partimos para Rabat, capital do país e que mantém o mesmo perfil de Casablanca. Por ser mais antiga, possui uma medina — uma cidade dentro da cidade — cercada por muros altíssimos e repleta de portas desenhadas. As medinas, que são datadas a partir do século 8 abrigam casas e comércios construídos em barro e alvenaria, entre vielas, pavimentadas ou não, com portas lindamente trabalhadas.
As casas das medinas possuem fachadas simples, sem detalhes. Nosso guia bonitão contou que este é um costume marroquino para esconder a riqueza de cada família e é para não humilhar quem não tem posses. Em geral, as casas possuem dois andares e um pátio central com jardins, e abrigam moradores de todas as classes sociais. Aproveitamos para tomar chá de menta com hortelã, costume do país, e apreciar uma vista maravilhosa.
Outra arquitetura com riqueza de detalhes exagerado é a do Mausoléu de Mohamed, avô do rei atual, um local que é visitado por muitos mulçumanos e por poucos turistas. Depois de uma noite no suntuoso hotel Farah Rabat, partimos para Meknes, que é umas das cidades mais históricas por conta da fama do Sultão Alauíta Moulay Ismail, que teve 867 filhos com mais de 500 esposas.
Numa história de sangue, o sultão construiu muralhas gigantescas com muitas portas, sendo a de Bab El Mansur, concluída em 1.732, a mais linda do Marrocos. Ironicamente, há na frente da porta mais linda, uma praça hoje utilizada como feira livre, simples e pobre, antigamente usada para julgamentos e assassinatos. O sultão teve 1.200 cavalos, guardados num estábulo gigante, e o feno ficava estocado num celeiro com mais de 120 metros, com pés direitos de 12 metros. Apesar dos dois grandes terremotos no país, em 1760 e 1960, essas construções foram totalmente preservadas.
Ainda em Meknes, visitamos a cidade romana Volubilis, patrimônio da Unesco. Ali estão preservados vários pisos em mosaico e diversas construções, como a Basílica e o Arco de Caracala, datados de 217 d.C.. Pela primeira vez vi uma cegonha, que fez um ninho em cima de uma coluna romana. Diz uma lenda em Marrocos: feche a boca quando estiver embaixo da cegonha para não ter bebês!!!
De lá fomos, por caminhos e estradas sinuosos, para Fez. Passamos pelas áreas rurais que possuem uma paisagem árida, belíssima. Em vários pontos vimos kasbahs, pequenos vilarejos em fundos de vales ou encostas de montanhas. Suas casas com paredes e telhados de barro, e poucas janelas, são geralmente enterradas no solo e precisam ser restauradas a cada ano. Fez é a capital cultural do país.
Cada região possui uma cor, e a cor de Fez é amarelo ocre. Todas as construções têm essa cor. E a medina de Fez é indescritível. Por entre casas simples encontramos riads (casas ricas com fachadas simples e portas entalhadas, com dois ou mais pavimentos, majestosas, com seus jardins, fontes e mausoléus. Passamos o dia inteiro visitando essa medina. A todo o tempo, vendedores ambulantes perseguiam os turistas com os mais diversos artigos: pulseiras, roupas, relógios…..insistindo em negociar. Muito chato…
Visitamos alguns locais com artesanatos especiais, como o do cinzelamento e tingimento de couro de camelo realizados nos famosos tanques coloridos. São poucas as indústrias em Marrocos. Quase tudo no país é produzido de forma artesanal. Aliás, os tecidos, tapetes, roupas e objetos de decoração impressionam por suas cores ao constratar com as construções na cor de terra.
Os restaurantes em riads são um passeio à parte. Adorei a comida, feita e servida em tagines de barro ou cerâmica pintada. Me diverti com a sobremesa, farta de frutas como laranja e maçã com cascas, que tínhamos que descascar com as mãos — isso em pleno hotel 5 estrelas!
No dia seguinte partimos para Marrakesh pelas estradas muito sinuosas nas montanhas. Subimos muito e descemos de novo, passando por várias kasbahs. Foram 11 horas de viagem, mas valeu a pena. Passamos por aldeias berberes (povo nativo), entre suas plantações, e paramos para almoçar na região agrícola Beni Melau.
Chegando em Marrakesh, fomos direto para o hotel Le Jardins de Lagdal, um palácio das mil e uma noites! De lá saímos para um passeio turístico. Em Marrakesh, as edificações são todas na cor terracota. A cidade tem sua medina e um novo bairro, onde estão as lojas chiques, cassinos e todas diversão que um turista desejar. A vida em Marrakesh é diferente das de outras cidades do Marrocos.
Gostei muito da praça gigante, Jemaa el-Fna, com barracas de comida, lojinhas, feira-livre, encantador de serpente, música ao vivo… Um circo para deleitar qualquer visitante. Nos mirantes, em volta da praça, casas de chá que serve o chá de menta com folha de hortelã.
O barulho é gritante e o trânsito de motos, cavalos, mulas, é surreal. Do mirante, vi a hora de rezar dos muçulmanos. Os autofalantes avisam e, em poucos minutos, faz-se o silêncio e um mar de gente se ajoelha em direção à Meca, que fica ao Leste. A medina de Marrakesh é a única que tem um cemitério, onde estão o túmulo do sultão Saadian, de seus familiares e serviçais.
Zagora e o hotel que parece um oásis foi a próxima parada. Dali, fomos conhecer uma kasbahs chamada Ksar Ait Bem Haddou, no pico de uma montanha. Conforme você vai subindo a pé, passa por inúmeras lojas de tecidos e tapetes, tudo muito colorido. Lá em cima, no mirante, uma vista incrível do deserto do Saara, e o assovio alto de um vento muito forte. Um lugar lindo e protegido pela Unesco.
Passamos quatro dias conhecendo o deserto. Fomos, além de Zagora, para Erfoud, Ouarzazate, Tazzarine e Tinghir, onde conheci Todra, que fica num pequeno vale no meio dos rochedos e onde são praticadas escaladas.
Chegamos ao nosso hotel no meio das dunas do deserto, cuja areia é amarela ocre, bem fininha, mas com mais peso do que a que conhecemos no Brasil. À noite no deserto é maravilhosa, parece que podemos pegar as estrelas com as mãos. O sol é muito forte, mas faz frio e venta muito!
Voltamos para mais dois dias em Marrakesh revitalizadas para depois, de Casablanca, pegar nosso voo de volta para o Brasil. Adoramos a viagem, aprendemos lições valorosas e vimos como é sadia a diversidade cultural. Na verdade, queria estar lá!
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