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Marajá em Udaipur

Marajá em Udaipur

Udaipur é uma cidade no sul do estado do Rajastão, a região mais deserta, perfumada e colorida da Índia. Eu cheguei lá de ônibus, saindo de Jaipur; foram cerca de 4 horas de viagem e, logo ao entrar na cidade, cedinho, senti algo diferente, dividindo o trânsito, barulhento e caótico, com um elefante e vários camelos!

Udaipur é cortada por cinco lagos e rodeada pelas Montanhas do Aravali. Considerada a Veneza do Oriente, é um dos pontos mais visitados pelos turistas e uma das cidades mais ricas da Índia. No meio do Lago Pichola, encontra-se o Lake Palace, o hotel dos sonhos, e pela margem e colinas, templos e mais palácios construídos pela Dinastia Rajput — em sânscrito rajaputra, “filho de um rei” — que desde o século 7, por meio de clãs patrilineares espalharam-se por terras até o Paquistão. 

Udaipur foi fundada em 1559 por Maharana Udai Singh II, Rei de Mewar, que, para fugir da invasão do imperador mongol Akbar, deixou sua terra natal com a família e seus guerreiros. 

Em Udaipur, Mewar conseguiu evitar o domínio mogol e ainda prosperar e manter-se independente até mesmo da colonização britânica. Embora hoje os marajás tenham o poder meramente simbólico, são muito ricos e poderosos nas cidades da Índia.

O sol é o símbolo da Dinastia Rajput e sua imagem está fundida em ouro na entrada do principal palácio da região, o City Palace, que demorou 400 anos para ficar pronto. São incontáveis informações com extrema riqueza nos vários ambientes dentro de áreas imensas. A gente sai até meio zonzo… Só a fachada do palácio tem 244 metros de comprimento e 30,4 metros de altura, com cúpulas, varandas e muitas janelas. São 11 palácios construídos num conjunto, por 76 gerações, por isso os ambientes trazem diferentes referências de culturas, o luxo de cada época: medieval, chinês, rajasthan, europeu, Mughal… Arquitetura, arte e design em mármore, madeira, granito; em espelhos, metais preciosos, cristais etc. Contam que a piscina dos marajás era de champanhe… 

Andar a pé por Udaipur é uma boa ideia. Como eu tinha não muito tempo, pois embarcaria para o hotel à noite, resolvi passear. Fui ao templo ao lado da entrada do City Palace, guardado por dois elefantes esculpidos em pedra, e escolhi um dos vários restaurantes no caminho, muitos no alto dos prédios para vender a maravilhosa vista. 

Dá para passar um dia delicioso na cidade e levar uns presentinhos; as coisas são mais em conta na Índia e ainda você tem o poder de negociar. E não se deve perder oportunidades de fazer compras no Rajastão: as cores dos tecidos são mais vibrantes, a arte e o artesanato são especiais. 

Já era hora de pegar o barco para passar três dias num hotel flutuante: o famoso Lake Palace. Nunca poderia imaginar que ao pisar na então ‘casa das férias de verão’ da família dos marajás, viajaria no tempo. Realmente é um hotel de outro mundo!

Todo construído e esculpido em mármore branco com cúpulas de cristal e um clima de 007 —  foi onde Octopussy, com Roger Moore, foi filmado. 

Vi o cair da noite e uma tremenda lua cheia refletida no lago, sentada na janela do meu quarto! Dormi numa cama dos deuses e acordei cedinho com um supercafé da manhã, servido em talheres de prata, por garçons vestidos a caráter — tipo hotel 6 estrelas! No caminho da piscina, me surpreendi com as paredes externas do hotel, encrustadas com pedras semipreciosas. Conversei com um rapaz que restaurava uma delas. Ele me disse que o ofício é passado de pai para filho. Sua precisão no corte de malaquita, coral, jade, turquesa; a delicadeza nos encaixes, e o que cada pedacinho representa ao ver a parede inteira; são de extasiar. Essa mesma técnica vi no Taj Mahal, em Agra. 

Além de apreciar os mosaicos dos pisos externos e os detalhe das pinturas nos murais, é possível fazer muitas coisas no hotel: aproveitar a piscina, sentar nos salões entre obras de arte ou tomar um chazinho vendo o pôr do sol. O hotel também oferece o Jiva Spa, tratamentos de corpo e beleza.

Há cruzeiros para ver os palácios e os templos espalhados pelo Lago Pichola; mas aproveitei bem o hotel. Tive almoço com música indiana ao vivo, jantares com espetáculos de marionetes e dança indiana e ainda shows circenses à noite nos jardins internos. 

Eu senti como se tivesse sido convidada pelo próprio marajá!

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