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Razões para conhecer Marrakech

Razões para conhecer Marrakech

Marrakech. Um nome tão exótico que dispensa apresentações. Ao ouvi–lo, logo se imaginam homens e mulheres trajando roupas exóticas, mercados barulhentos e coloridos, serpentes sendo encantadas pelo som de uma flauta, aromas de especiarias, camelos, desertos sem fim, as Mil e uma noites… Ainda que nem todos esses estereótipos correspondam à realidade, não se pode negar que Marrakech, conhecida como a “cidade vermelha”, é a porta de entrada não só para o deserto do Saara, mas também para todo o universo marroquino. Aliás, o próprio nome Marrocos é uma derivação da palavra Marrakech, usada pelos portugueses quando lá chegaram. Foi em Marrakech que comecei e foi em Marrakech que terminei minha viagem ao Marrocos. Melhor lugar para isso não havia!

Logo na entrada principal de sua medina (a cidade velha dentro das muralhas), pode-se ver o minarete da Mesquita de Koutoubia, a mais importante de Marrakech. Quando a Koutoubia foi finalizada no século XII, cem livreiros estavam agrupados ao seu redor. Daí seu nome, que quer dizer livraria. Ao lado dela, há as ruínas da antiga mesquita, que deixou de ser utilizada, porque não estava corretamente orientada para Meca. O minarete serviu de modelo para outras construções no Marrocos — a torre Hassan, em Rabat, capital administrativa do país – e até mesmo na Espanha. La Giralda, em Sevilha, é inspirada nele.

Perto da Koutoubia, fica a Praça Jemaa el-Fna. A praça, um dos pontos principais dentro da medina, era, por volta de 1050, o local das execuções públicas. Aliás, seu nome quer dizer “assembleia dos mortos”. Atualmente, é famosa pelos encantadores de serpentes durante a tarde e pelos grupos de música e barracas de comidas exóticas durante a noite. É, com certeza, um dos lugares mais loucos de todo o Marrocos. 

A partir da praça, pode-se entrar no souq (mercado), que está dividido em várias seções conforme a área do comércio. O souq de Marrakech não é tão labiríntico quanto o de Fez, outra cidade importante do Marrocos e antiga capital imperial, e o assédio por parte dos vendedores é menor. Deve-se, porém, tomar bastante cuidado com as bicicletas, motonetas e até motos que insistem em transitar por suas vielas.  As vendas no Marrocos ocorrem de forma semelhante às de outros países árabes e Turquia: deve-se pechinchar tudo! Como não estava interessada em comprar nada, nem me dei ao trabalho.

Mas teve um lugar em Marrakech em que cedi à sanha consumista. Por mais estranho que possa parecer, isso ocorreu em uma farmácia. Na verdade, na Herboresterie Bab Agnaou. Lá vendem produtos naturais que são utilizados pelos marroquinos há séculos para curar ou melhorar os sintomas de doenças crônicas, como asma, rinite, artrite etc. Também vendem cosméticos feitos com o famoso óleo de argan e essências, almíscar para perfumar e tirar o mofo de guarda-roupas, chá de menta e até temperos. 

Uma região que gostei bastante de caminhar foi ao redor da kasbah, a fortaleza antiga, próxima da farmácia. Praticamente não havia turistas por lá, o que foi um alívio. Localizadas perto dela, há uma das principais atrações da cidade, as tumbas saadianas, bem mais lotadas. Do século XV e XVI, nas tumbas foram utilizados materiais caríssimos, como mármore de Carrara e até ouro puro. Entretanto, algumas décadas depois, com a tomada do poder pelos alauítas – dinastia que continua a reinar no Marrocos -, quase todos os vestígios da passagem dos saadianos por Marrakech foram apagados. Só remanesceram mesmo as tumbas, já que destruí-las seria considerado sacrilégio. Elas foram fechadas por muros e esquecidas, até que fotos áreas de 1917 as expuseram.

Aliás, depois da queda dos saadianos e a transferência da capital imperial para Meknès no século XVI, Marrakech tornou-se terra de ninguém. Nesse período, a opulência dos riads (palecetes dos ricos, com jardins internos) contrastava com a extrema pobreza dos superlotados fondouqs (casas de alojamentos), onde a maior parte da população vivia. O Palais Bahia, utilizado como locação de diversos filmes, como Ali Babá, Indiana Jones etc., é um exemplo dessa opulência. 

Bahia quer dizer bonita. O nome do palácio se referia à esposa favorita do grão-vizir Si Moussa, dono do palácio, que o construiu no final do século XIX. Além dela, o vizir tinha mais três esposas e 24 concubinas, que habitavam o harém. Como fazia para dar conta de todas elas? Com ginseng vermelho, um Viagra natural. Peripécias sexuais à parte, o palácio é, com certeza, um dos lugares mais bonitos de toda Marrakech. Cada sala, cada pátio e cada canto expõem um detalhe arquitetônico ou de design que salta à vista e encanta. A vontade que se tem é de fotografar absolutamente tudo!

Outro lugar que merece ser intensamente fotografado é o Hotel La Mamounia. Churchill dizia que era seu hotel preferido. E dá para entender o porquê: o hotel, com seus jardins centenários e os lindos ambientes de seu interior recentemente restaurado, é deslumbrante. Serviu, ainda, de locação para o filme O homem que sabia demais, de Hitchcock. Por sua vez, o Jardim Menara é o único monumento histórico importante fora da medina. Menara quer dizer iluminação. Dentro do pavilhão está enterrado um rei e, na frente dele, há um reservatório de água de 4 m de profundidade. No local, é feito um espetáculo de luz e som em determinados meses do ano.

Ainda fora da medina, fica a ville nouvelle, ou cidade nova. Com o protetorado francês, no início do século XX, franceses e espanhóis começaram a erguê-la. O Jardin Majorelle talvez seja, ao lado da estação de trem, o local mais charmoso da cidade nova. Trata-se de uma casa em Marrakech que pertenceu a Yves Saint Laurent e a seu parceiro Pierre Bergé. O estilista adorava o Marrocos e inspirou várias de suas criações nas cores e formas que viu no país. Agora o complexo tem um museu dedicado ao estilista, uma galeria com mostras temporárias, um lindo jardim em que predominam os cactus, um museu berbere, dois cafés, um cinema onde são exibidos desfiles de moda e uma loja que tem, inclusive, produtos da grife YSL.

Outro local de destaque é o Hivernage, o bairro chique da cidade nova, próximo à medina. Todo arborizado, fica mais agradável ainda à noite. Com cafés, restaurantes, lojas de grife etc., é nele que estão localizados o Cassino de Marrakech e o Sofitel. Também é nele que está o Menara Mall, que recomendo uma visita. Pode parecer estranho indicar a ida a um shopping center. Nesse caso, porém, acho que vale a pena. É que, no último andar do shopping, há uma espécie de praça de alimentação aberta, que dá uma vista panorâmica da cidade, especialmente para a medina.

Mas Marrakech ainda tem muito mais a oferecer. Dentro da medina, ficam o complexo Dar Si Said, onde está o Museu das Artes Marroquinas, o Palácio Badi e a Madrassa Ali Ben Youssef. Outros lugares de interesse são: o Musée de Mouassine, a Maison de la Photographie, o Musée de Marrakech e os museus privados dentro da medina, como o Le Jardin Secret, o Heritage Museum e o Musée Boucharouite. Também merecem a visita algumas fondouqs que foram renovadas, como a Fondouq el-Amir e a Fondouq Kharbouch. E, para relaxar depois de tanta andança, os maravilhosos hammans (banhos turcos)!

Enfim, razões para ir a Marrakech é que não faltam!

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