Raízes gregas na Turquia
Há tempos queria conhecer a Turquia e, enfim, eu e uma amiga criamos um roteiro que incluía visitar os patrimônios locais, a Capadócia, o Centro da Turquia, as praias e, eu, como sou arquiteta, queria conhecer tudo o que estava preservado. Desembarcamos em Istambul e, no dia seguinte, já fomos para a capital Ancara — uma cidade nova e moderna. A população turca é formada por 99% de muçulmanos.
Ancara abriga o Mausoléu de Atartuki, que ocupa uma área de 4 quarteirões, e foi o responsável pela Revolução Turca em 1922. Quando a cidade foi invadida pelos turcos, um tremendo massacre — e os cristãos foram expulsos do país. Gregos e armênios, cristãos ortodoxos, viviam ali naquela época.
Já Istambul é um verdadeiro caos. Faltam leis de mobilidade urbana e de direitos humanos. Não existe lei de trânsito, não há respeito ao pedestre e muito menos acessibilidade para cadeirantes ou pessoas com mobilidade reduzida. Na cidade está a Catedral Ortodoxa de Santa Sofia, tomada também pelos muçulmanos. Aqui, na Vila Mariana, na Rua Vergueiro, temos uma réplica dessa igreja.
Ainda em Istambul, vale conhecer a Praça Central Taxin, dela sai uma das mais importantes ruas da cidade, a Istiklal, que vai descendo, descendo… Istambul é uma cidade cortada por rios, com muitas pontes e é ‘dividida’ em duas: a antiga e a moderna. Todos os caminhos levam aos rios. É repleta de palacetes e reparei que há muitas pessoas vendendo suco de romã. As lojas, pequenos comércios, avizinham-se pelas pequenas ruelas, intercaladas por restaurantes. Em todo lugar e a qualquer hora do dia e da noite, a gente ouve uma voz que sai de microfones chamando as pessoas para rezar
Achei Istambul uma São Paulo com população rica, mas que cresceu preservando sua tradição e a arquitetura. Algumas horas no Gran Bazar, com seu luxo e especiarias, é uma lembrança para a vida toda. Milhões de lojas que negociam joias, tapetes, tecidos, cerâmicas, perfumes…. Um mercado persa onde há séculos vendem-se diversos tipos de mercadorias. É um dos mais antigos mercados cobertos do mundo, com mais de 60 ruas, com fontes de água, cafés e restaurantes. Ele atrai milhares de visitantes com seus pisos desenhados, afrescos e arabesco nas paredes. O complexo ainda abriga duas mesquitas.
Outro ponto que merece uma visita é o mercado de especiarias na beira do Bósforo — rio que corta toda a cidade, ora na Ásia ora na Europa. Em suas margens ficam os palacetes e hostéis. Ficamos cinco dias em Istambul e não deu para conhecer muita coisa, pois é uma cidade de 15 milhões de habitantes, que fazem de tudo para agradar o turista. No Centro há pouca gente pedindo esmola; as que eu vi eram pessoas deficientes. Em Istambul, embora muitas ruas sejam antigas, há um trem terrestre, novíssimo, com ar-condicionado. Achei o comércio em Istambul cheio de barganhas e negociações, exceto nos restaurantes.
Viajar para Istambul é a certeza de que você vai comer muito bem. A culinária tem sabores e temperos incríveis. No cardápio há sopinhas de peixe, saladas, mil pratos de cordeiro, berinjelas, pastas, queijos de cabra, aperitivos… Os doces são iguais aos árabes, mas são pequenos e não são enjoativos.
De Ancara nos preparamos para conhecer a Capadócia, que foi formada por vulcões e é toda feita de lava. No meio da lava foi esculpido o hotel em que nos hospedamos. Vale a pena, é lindo! Não dá vontade de vir embora. As refeições do hotel também são maravilhosas, bem diversificadas. Muito mais que um banquete!
Para passear de balão pela Capadócia é preciso acordar às 3h. A ideia é ver o sol nascer do balão. Lá de cima a paisagem é linda, toda formada por lavas cinza escorrida que compõe a cidade. No cesto do balão vão seis pessoas mais o condutor. Ver o nascer do sol do alto, naquele silêncio, apenas o barulho do fogo do balão, é uma experiência inesquecível. Ele sobrevoa a Capadócia e a sensação é de estar em um filme animado. O passeio dura uma hora e meia.
Depois fomos conhecer Goreme, onde a primeira igreja católica foi construída toda de pedras… É um lugar histórico. A paisagem é árida e quase não há árvores. O local é bem famoso e abriga uma cidadezinha que não tem ruas, apenas estradas e é chamada de Fadas de Urgup. É um ponto turístico com muita gente vendendo de tudo um pouco, de tapetes a chás. Fomos conhecer o seu Gran Bazar, com cerca de 4 mil lojas. Um oásis do comércio! Os moradores vivem disso, produzem tapetes persas, acessórios de couro, tecidos…
Fadas abriga muitas cidades subterrâneas, como a de Ozkonak, onde você entra num espaço minúsculo cavado na lava e vai descendo até alcançar a cidade. Elas foram construídas como esconderijos dos cristãos. Apesar de ser profunda, tem ventilação e vários ambientes. São rampas e mais rampas com pequenos degraus. Muitas pessoas param na metade do caminho por ser muito estreito.
A nossa próxima parada foi Cônia, a capital do império de Selyusida e cidade onde nasceu o pensador e poeta Rumi — que todos chamam de Mevlana. Visitamos o templo onde está seu túmulo e onde também está guardada a barba do profeta Maomé. A Ásia toda faz peregrinação nesse local, pessoas do Irã, Iraque, Arábia Saudita. Em seu interior é um silêncio que emociona — saímos tocadas.
Depois fomos para Pamucali. É uma montanha com as ruínas de uma cidade grega. As montanhas ao redor formam uma carbonatação que deixa tudo branco devido ao cálcio e cheia de lagos de água limpa e que refletem o azul do céu. É uma paisagem deslumbrante. Ali está Éfeso, a cidade mais conservada da Antiguidade e o Templo de Adriano. Você sobe a montanha de cálcio e banha-se nas mesmas termas em que Cleópatra banhava-se! Também em Éfeso está a biblioteca de Celsius, um dos monumentos mais importantes da Turquia. É a primeira biblioteca da antiguidade com a fachada totalmente preservada.
Ainda conhecemos Lerápolis, a cidade de três séculos a.C. que foi a mais rica da Ásia Menor. Além das ruínas, os teatros estão preservados. Ali fica o templo de Afrodite e de muitos museus. Todos eles são de primeiríssimo mundo, acervo cata-logado, ar condicionado. Parece que você está em Paris.
De lá fomos para Kusadasi. É uma cidade na beira do Mar Egeu, de uma cor de azul indescritível, e considerada uma Istambul menor. Tem um porto e um Gran Bazar pequeno. Conforme fomos andando, vimos as placas de Adanas, Tarsun, cidades de onde vieram meus avós. Eu vim dali, daquela geografia, daquela aridez. Tudo aquilo eram cidades gregas, milenares, que os muçulmanos preservaram.
Uma curiosidade: até essa viagem eu sempre achei que era grega de Atenas. Quando era pequena foi essa história passada pela família. Mas descobri que sou grega da Turquia, dos povos expulsos por Atartuki, em 1922. Aos poucos, durante a viagem, comecei a formar a história de onde eu vim. A minha vó veio de Kusadasi para o Brasil.
Nessa região está a casa da Virgem Maria, a mãe do profeta, segundo os muçulmanos. Ela e São João Evangelista foram para Kusadasi após a morte de Jesus. A casa onde viveu a Virgem Maria é pequena e a emoção é enorme quando você entra nela. É um lugar com uma energia muito poderosa. Eu chorava, chorava, não conseguia parar…. É permitida a entrada de apenas seis pessoas por vez. Dentro há um pequeno altar, uma pequena sala, tudo de pedra, com um telhadinho, dois bancos para sentar e uma pequena cozinha. Uma casa de dois mil anos! Ali perto São João Evangelista construiu a primeira igreja católica. Fiquei impressionada como eles preservam e respeitam a memória.
Depois fomos para a cidade de Pérgamo, onde se encontra um centro terapêutico de dois mil anos a.C. dedicado ao Esculápio, deus da medicina.Nesse lugar há um museu médico e o local de tratamento continua preservado. É um túnel e tem uma nascente, o ruído da água é constante, usado para acalmar as pessoas que faziam tratamentos de saúde. Tudo muito preservado, com um museu com artefatos médicos.
A para seguinte foi uma cidade portuária chamada Chinakkale, no estreito de Dardanelos e voltamos para Istambul. A viagem durou dez dias. Foi uma importante aula de história e sobretudo um reencontro pessoal com as minhas raízes. Adorei a Turquia!
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