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Entre o caribe colombiano e a Sierra Nevada

Entre o caribe colombiano e a Sierra Nevada

Comecei a planejar as férias deste ano bem em cima da hora, confesso. Joguei no Google a frase “praias na América do Sul” e fui xeretando o mapa até que cheguei à Colômbia. Minha primeira opção seria a ilha de San Andrés, um dos destinos mais procurados do país, atrás de Cartagena das Índias, da capital Bogotá e Medelín. Porém, como a maioria das ilhas, o custo é alto e estava fora da capacidade do meu bolso. Então a pesquisa me levou à Santa Marta, no departamento de Magdalena. Santa Marta está localizada entre o mar do Caribe e a Sierra Nevada e é a terceira cidade mais importante da região, depois de Barranquilla e Cartagena, e a uma das mais antigas da América do Sul, fundada em 1525. Fiquei hospedada 12 dias em El Rodadero, uma praia urbana não tão bonita e bem cheia todos os dias, mas com toda infraestrutura necessária — e peixinhos na água. 

Minha primeira dica é: leve um snorkel. Em todas as praias você vai nadar com os peixinhos. A água de El Rodadero é disputada não só por pessoas (muitas!), mas por botes, bóias, pedalinhos, lanchas e barcos. A areia também é concorrida por todo tipo de ambulante: de comida, como ceviches, a massagem. É permitido ficar na água até as 18h, quando termina o famoso pôr do sol colombiano. Depois desse horário, a polícia passa ordenando que todos vão para a faixa de areia e, após as 20h, só é permitido ficar no calçadão (malecón). Todas as noites tem música na praia. Aliás, onde você anda tem música, ao vivo ou não, e muita animação. 

Aluguei um carro e fui andar pela região. Não planejei nada da viagem e fui decidindo os roteiros diariamente. Me senti muito segura em todos os lugares — onde fui como há muito tempo não me sinto aqui no Brasil. Perto de El Rodadero tem praias bem mais bonitas e tranquilas, como Taganga, Inca Inca e Playa Grande — esta última um pouco mais disputada. Eu gostei mesmo de Inca Inca porque é uma praia quase particular, sem vendedores ambulantes. Mas o lugar mais bonito de Santa Marta, sem dúvida alguma, é o Parque Tayrona. São 15 mil hectares de natureza preservada e um mar ora azul, ora verde, de água transparente. Em algumas praias é proibido nadar, por causa do mar agitado. Eu conheci a Playa Cristal (ou Playa Muerto), Cabo San Juan e Bahía Concha. 

Chegar na Playa Cristal ou na Bahía Concha é fácil. Mas para aproveitar Cabo San Juan é preciso fazer uma trilha de pouco mais de 6 quilômetros, embaixo de sol forte, subidas e descidas. Mas vale muito a pena! O lugar é lindo — a trilha também — e, quem quiser, pode acampar por lá. 

E aqui fica a segunda dica: para quem tem a pele mais clara, leve uma camiseta com proteção solar. Nos primeiros dias, achei engraçado as pessoas de roupa e sapatilha (e Crocs) na praia, dentro da água. Depois entendi o motivo: faz muito, mas muito calor em Santa Marta, a areia da praia queima os pés e também há pedras e corais em alguns locais, por isso o uso da sapatilha é recomendado. Outro lugar que vale a pena conhecer é Minca, na Sierra Nevada, região famosa pela produção de café — a Colômbia tem os melhores cafés do mundo! Lá tem a famosa rede suspensa, localizada numa pousada a 14 quilômetros do centrinho. A vista é realmente linda e a temperatura é bem mais amena. 

E como eu não sabia quando voltaria à Colômbia, decidi encarar os 240 quilômetros de estrada que separam Santa Marta de Cartagena. Quatro horas e muitas “peases tajaseras” (pedágios) depois, cheguei à Ciudad Amurallada, no centro histórico de Cartagena — onde fica a casa de Gabriel García Márquez. O local é cercado por 11 quilômetros de muros de pedras — dos quais 9 quilômetros estão preservados — que serviam de proteção contra o ataque de piratas. O projeto das muralhas durou quase dois séculos e foi concluído em 1796 com fortalezas e baluartes, pelos quais é possível contemplar o pôr do sol sobre o Mar Caribe. 

Cartagena tem a parte histórica, colorida, alegre, com fachadas enfeitadas com flores — e onde se anda muuuuito, e eu recomendo que você se perca mesmo entre as ruas andando sem rumo —, e a parte moderna, com prédios luxuosos à beira mar. Também tem as ilhas próximas, como Isla Barú e Isla Rosário, com praias paradisíacas. 

Para chegar a Cartagena indo de Santa Marta, é preciso passar por Barranquilla, a cidade da Shakira. O lugar é um caos: o trânsito, de maneira geral nas cidades onde passei, é confuso. Mas Barranquilla, além de caótica, é feia. As praias são escuras, de areia preta, e eu realmente não curti. E não fui até a famosa estátua em homenagem à cantora. Tem um passeio lá que leva ao encontro do Rio Magdalena com o Mar Caribe. Eu fui até o início da desembocadura, mas não senti vontade de fazer o passeio com o barco. Dizem que Barranquilla tem o melhor Carnaval do país, mas como em agosto não tem Carnaval… Se você não for nessa época, pode pular esse destino tranquilamente.

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