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Waldir Gandolfi

Waldir Gandolfi

O médico-veterináro, professor de cirurgia aposentado é um apaixonado por vinhos. Morador da rua Morgado de Mateus, atualmente é presidente do Conselho Deliberativo da Sociedade Brasileira dos Amigos do Vinho – SBAV -, e um dos professores do curso básico sobre o Conhecimento do Vinho. A seguir, ele conta sobre a origem da bebida, a cultura e variedades de uvas cultivadas, dá noções de como analisar o vinho, indica algumas marcas com ótimos preços, entre outras curiosidades

Pedaço da Vila:Simbolismos milenares e comprovados poderes curativos são atribuídos ao vinho pela humanidade. Conte um pouco sobre sua história.
Waldir Gandolfi: A origem do vinho remonta a 6.000 aC. No Egito, achados arqueológicos demonstram a presença do vinho a cerca de 3.000 aC. Os gregos, em 1.000 aC, levaram o vinho para a Itália e Norte da África. Porém a grande expansão se deu por volta do século II aC com as conquistas romanas, pois o exército, que já na época tinha um setor de intendência, levava o vinho para as legiões, com temor de beberem água das terras conquistadas. Depois de certo tempo, passaram a levar mudas de vitis para fazerem o vinho nas áreas ocupadas, dando serviço aos nômades locais e podendo fabricar o vinho a centenas de quilômetros de Roma. Na época dos descobrimentos, as naus transportavam vinho como bebida diária, pois a água trazida em barris ou tonéis tornava-se turva pela presença de bactérias e eles acreditavam também que não se devia beber água de chuva, pois “em pouco tempo converter-se-ia em gusanos”. Na Europa e depois na América, o vinho seguiu a igreja católica. Os padres e monges necessitavam do vinho para a liturgia da missa e assim resolveram plantar as vitis em torno de igrejas ou conventos para a fabricação do “vinho de missa”. Assim, a vinha se espalhou por quase todo o mundo.Já na Idade Média, o vinho foi usado como medicamento nos hospitais e era dado também como fortificante. Hoje sabemos tratar-se de um produto que tomado de forma moderada pode auxiliar na prevenção de doenças coronárianas, devido a uma substância principalmente encontrada mais nos tintos: o Resveratrol.

P.daVila:O que determina a qualidade da uva para tornar-se um bom vinho? O que diferencia o valor da safra?
W.G.: A qualidade da uva depende de uma série de fatores como clima, solo, local – que os franceses chamam de terroir -, além é claro de cuidado com as videiras que devem ser plantadas de forma correta, preferencialmente no sentido norte-sul para que as parreiras aproveitem ao máximo a insolação. Bom clima para uvas é ser quente durante o dia e frio à noite. Em alguns lugares a diferença de temperatura pode ultrapassar os 15 graus entre dia e noite. O vitivinicultor deve conhecer as técnicas modernas e ser assessorado por profissionais competentes, geralmente fornecidos pelas vinícolas, para produzir um fruto de qualidade. Em alguns locais, países ou mesmo áreas regionais, as safras são muito valorizadas e tudo isso depende fundamentalmente do clima. Um dos fatores que pode prejudicar uma safra é o excesso de chuva na época da colheita.

P.daVila:Quais os tipos de uva e suas diferenças?
W.G.: Basicamente a Ampelografia – a ciência que estuda a videira – classifica essa planta como sendo do gênero Vitis, que possui 40 espécies. Para nós, a mais importante é a Vitis Vinífera, utilizada na produção de vinhos de qualidade. Outras espécies como Vitis Labrusca e Vitis Ruprestis são características de uvas de mesa. É possível produzir vinhos com elas, porém de qualidade inferior – como por exemplo o vinho de garrafão. Esses vinhos têm cheiro de uva, mas jamais podemos chamá-los de um vinho fino. A legislação brasileira obriga o produtor a colocar no rótulo das garrafas feitas com Vitis Vinífera o termo “vinho fino”, como o Vinho Tinto Seco Fino. Dentre as uvas viníferas, temos mais de 5.000 espécies e pouco mais de cinquenta são as mais conhecidas, entre elas Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tannat, Tempranillo, Tinta Cão, Touriga Nacional, Malbec, Carmenère e Pinot Noir. As brancas mais conhecidas são Chardonnay, Blanc, Chenin, Gewurztraminer,Sauvignon, Blanc, Moscatel, Semillon, Rieling etc.

P.daVila:A Europa ainda domina a produção?W.G.: Sem dúvida nenhuma, com Itália, Portugal, França, Espanha, Alemanha, Grécia, Hungria, entre outros países. Mas a evolução do chamado Novo Mundo vem dando dor de cabeça para os europeus… Aí citamos Austrália, Nova Zelândia, África do Sul, Estado Unidos, Chile, Argentina, Uruguai e …..Brasil!

P.daVila:Quando a cultura foi trazida ao Brasil?  
W.G.: Segundo Carlos Cabral no livro ” Presença do Vinho no Brasil”, devemos a introdução da uva Vitis Vinífera a Brás Cubas que era vitivinicultor em sua cidade Porto, em Portugal. Ele plantou as primeiras vitis em São Vicente,mas como o clima litorâneo não favorecia, subiu a serra e as plantou em Piratininga. Foi no bairro de Tatuapé, próximo à rua Tuiuti, onde se deu o primeiro vinhedo produtivo. Muito depois, com a colonização italiana, o vinho foi levado para o Rio Grande do Sul, onde melhor se adaptou.

P.daVila:Atualmente como anda a produção e a qualidade do vinho no país?
W.G.: O Brasil já produz alguns vinhos de qualidade, principalmente espumantes. Nossos espumantes se ombreiam aos melhores do mundo. Em degustações às cegas, são vencedores de vários concursos internacionais. Aliás, a melhor safra brasileira foi colhida em 2005, quando o Rio Grande do Sul sofreu uma das suas maiores estiagens. Atualmente  são produzidos vinhos no Brasil principalmente na Serra Gaúcha, Campos de Cima da Serra,  Campanha, Vale dos Vinhedos, Vale do São Francisco, Serra Catarinense – que vem despontando bem – e algo em Sorocaba, São Paulo. A vitivinicultura nacional se utiliza de técnicas ultramodernas, além de ter grande e competente assessoramento técnico, explicando assim a grande melhora dos vinhos nacionais, principalmente nos últimos dez anos.

P.daVila:Até quanto um vinho pode custar?
W.G.: O preço de um vinho varia muito com a safra, quantidade produzida, logística, marketing etc. Para comemorar sua reeleição, nosso Presidente tomou um vinho, que segundo consta foi pago pelo seu marqueteiro de campanha, no valor de 6 mil reais. Parece-me que era um Romané Conti de safra especial…

P.daVila:O mais caro sempre é o melhor?
W.G.: Nem sempre. Às vezes um produtor se aproveita do sucesso de uma safra anterior para subir o preço de seu vinho que nesse ano não foi dos melhores, se valendo do nome conquistado. Devemos sempre lembrar que o melhor vinho é aquele que nos dá o máximo prazer, e isso nem sempre é compatível com o preço. Muitos dos antigos imigrantes italianos do Rio Grande do Sul, os ‘nonos’, como são carinhosamente chamados ainda hoje, tomam e apreciam vinhos feitos com uva de mesa.

P.daVila:Qualquer pessoa pode analisar um vinho? O que devemos observar?
W.G.: Para se analisar um vinho deve-se ter bom senso. Um enófilo – amigo do vinho – deve saber hora e local para fazer uma análise. Um vinho deve ser analisado rapidamente na garrafa para se observar coloração e presença de borra. Depois é analisado na taça, não esquecendo que a temperatura é um fator preponderante na degustação. Na taça temos que colocar nossos sentidos para funcionar. Vamos lá: Visão: observar principalmente a cor e impurezas; ver as lágrimas ou pernas escorrendo pela taça. Olfato: sentir os aromas exalados, um Sauvignon Blanc, por exemplo, pode ter aromas de maracujá, maçã verde, grama cortada… Paladar: deixar o vinho derramar pela boca, sorvê-lo aos poucos e observar depois de deglutido se seu sabor permanece na boca por mais tempo ou se desaparece rapidamente, se provoca salivação ou não, se tem peso (comparado com a água) etc. Porém aconselhamos que em restaurantes ou reuniões, se analise o vinho uma única vez, e depois desfrute da companhia dos demais. Degustação, como foi dito anteriormente, tem hora e local, assim não seja um ‘enochato’.

P.daVila: Como compatibilizar o vinho à comida? Há regras inquebrantáveis?
W.G.: A compatibilização é muito variável! Existem algumas regras básicas, mas não absolutas. Queijos azuis tipo gorgonzola vão muitíssimo bem com vinho do Porto. Comidas substanciosas e robustas devem ser acompanhadas de um vinho também robusto: um Cassolet vai muito bem com um Tannat – que também é recomendado para nossa feijoada! O churrasco vai bem escoltado por um Merlot, não encharca tanto quanto a cerveja e permite apreciar melhor a carne. Vale lembrar que quem comanda o vinho numa massa é o molho. Um molho ragu pede um bom tinto, ao passo que um de creme com champignon vai melhor com um branco. Foi dito uma vez por um garçom português a quem se pediu opinião o que beber com bacalhau. Ele respondeu: bacalhau não é peixe, bacalhau não é carne, bacalhau é Bacalhau. Assim pode-se saborear uma boa bacalhoada com brancos ou tintos, dependendo da potência de cada vinho para acompanhar o tipo de guarnição que leva o prato. Enfim, regras pétreas não existem,e assim vale mais o gosto de cada um. Mas cuidado na compatibilização com alcachofra, aspargo, aliche, shoyo. Lembrar também que basicamente vinagre é vinho azedo, assim na hora da salada temperada com vinagre é melhor deixar o vinho para depois!

P.daVila:Fale sobre a Sociedade Brasileira dos Amigos do Vinho.
W.G.: Ela foi fundada em 11 de julho de 1980 e se dedica a promover e estimular o hábito da degustação de vinhos. Hoje, além das degustações seguidas de jantares, que ocorrem todas as terças-feiras em sua sede social (Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva, 2586), a Sociedade promove mensalmente um curso básico sobre conhecimento de vinho, com aulas teóricas e práticas de degustação. O site é www.sbav-sp.com.br. 

P.daVila:Já que junho é o mês dos namorados, o sr. poderia indicar um bom vinho para um jantar romântico?
W.G.: Fica difícil compatibilizar gostos e preços, assim, darei algumas sugestões não muito caras. Vale lembrar que os valores apresentados são de importadoras ou supermercados, em restaurantes o preço pode triplicar! Então… Por que não brindarmos com um excelente espumante nacional? Sugerimos o Passion da Chandon, que deve custar em torno de R$ 30,00 e serve como aperitivo e acompanhamento de jantar. Não deixe a garrafa fora do gelo!!! Agora, para quem prefere um bom tinto nacional, há ótimas safras de 2004 e de 2005, ainda melhor! Há outras boas indicações: um Merlot Reserva Miolo de 28 reais. Um Salton Volpi Chardonnay Branco seco, por 25 reais:.. Ah! Para quem gosta de tintos encorpados, um Matisses Cabernet Sauvignos 2001, do Chile, por 38,00 – ou ainda um mais potente, um Terrazas Reserva Syrah 2003, Argentino, que custa 65 reais. Com estas dicas só desejo bom proveito no Dia dos Namorados! 

Edição 62 – Jun/2007

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    We have discovered SERMs (selective estrogen receptor modulators)
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    (17) Malhotra, A., Poon, E., Tse, W. Y., Pringle, P. J., Hindmarsh,
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    We usually see restoration times shorten by approximately 50% when taking effective endogenous testosterone-stimulating medications.
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    The strongest oral steroid we have seen when it comes to building muscle and gaining colossal power is oral trenbolone, otherwise generally identified as methyltrienolone.

    Dianabol has a low affinity to bind with the 5α-reductase enzyme, thus decreasing the conversion of testosterone into DHT (dihydrotestosterone).
    Thus, androgenic results are mild, so our sufferers
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    Dianabol can be considered a ‘wet’ steroid as a end result of its capability
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    Thus, customers could not experience any extra water retention or gynecomastia in comparison with a testosterone-only cycle.
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    Due To This Fact, although results may be beneficial in phrases of
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    Staying on a low dose can result in plateaus;
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    Oily skin, zits, and thinning of hair on the
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    It works along with testosterone and Dianabol to spice up muscle development
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    Dianabol isn’t the mildest or the harshest, which
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    Winstrol’s simultaneous anabolic (muscle-building)
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    This is why some bodybuilders stack androgenic compounds with Deca Durabolin, similar to testosterone,
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