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Zapatismo: atual cultura da paz

Zapatismo: atual cultura da paz

No mês de agosto estive em San Cristóbal de las Casas, México. Nunca imaginei fazer uma viagem ao sul daquele país, quase fronteira com a Guatemala, mas os estudos me levaram até lá. A cidade fica em Chiapas, o estado mexicano mais pobre economicamente, porém rico por acolher culturas locais diversas e um ímpeto de lutas históricas de resistência, como as do Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional, movimento prioritariamente indígena contra o sistema de governo neoliberal, que ocupou diversos municípios do estado em 1994. 

A região abriga trinta comunidades autônomas e cinco sedes, os chamados Caracoles Zapatistas: Oventic, La Realidad, Morelia, La Garrucha e Roberto Barrios. Os caracóis concentram as “Juntas de Buen Gobierno”, centros de representação política e de organização civil das comunidades. Nelas, existe toda uma hierarquia de comando e as autoridades são eleitas mediante assembleias coletivas. Seus sistemas organizativos independem do governo mexicano e são liderados pelos próprios integrantes do EZLN, que defendem em letras garrafais em seus muros e placas as ordens: “¡Ya basta!” e “Aqui manda el pueblo y el gobierno obedece”. 

Os “caracóis” desenvolvem suas próprias escolas, clínicas de saúde, projetos e serviços agroecológicos, cooperativas de artesanato, iniciativas de difusão das línguas e culturas indígenas locais, como choles, zoques, tzotziles, manes, tzeltales e tojolabales. Recebem ajuda financeira de organizações estrangeiras de direitos humanos e trabalho voluntário dos “promotores”, estrangeiros profissionais de diversas áreas que passam temporadas nos caracóis auxiliando na formação e difusão de conhecimentos, principalmente nos campos da educação e da saúde. 

A entrada em território zapatista não é tão simples. Estive no “Caracol Resistência y Rebeldia por La Humanidad Oventic”, localizado nas montanhas de San Andrés Larráinzar. Esse é o maior dos cinco caracóis e o de mais fácil acesso a “turistas” como eu. Na minha primeira visita, foi solicitado o meu passaporte, tive que responder perguntas a homens e mulheres com os rostos cobertos por capuz ou lenço (paliacate), detalhando mais de uma vez os motivos pelos quais estava ali, e esperar, esperar muito tempo até ter a permissão para entrar. Ao que tudo indica, esse é um procedimento de segurança usual, mas para mim um ritual de fascinante potência teatral. 

Dentro, uma cidade rural, com escolas, oficinas e um cotidiano. Sob a condição de não fotografar pessoas nem carros, nem fazer perguntas sobre seus modos de vida e autogestão, explorei cada detalhe daquela vida campesina aparentemente simples. Entretanto, cheia de histórias registradas pelos grafites nas paredes, com imagens e dizeres que imprimem a permanência do estado de rebeldia desse povo da terra. 

Durante a minha estada, procurei me informar sobre a participação das mulheres zapatistas em especial nos projetos políticos. Minha intenção era compreender como elas lutavam por seus direitos, considerando que as diferenças entre os sexos são ainda mais acentuadas em comunidades indígenas. Soube que a colaboração das mulheres no momento original de resistência e ocupação do EZLN foi de extrema vitalidade. Elaboraram a “Ley Revolucionaria de Mujeres”, em que reivindicaram o direito a saúde, educação, trabalho remunerado, equiparação de gênero e participação política nas decisões cotidianas das comunidades. Também são amparadas por entidades sociais internacionais e centros de direitos das mulheres do estado de Chiapas, que têm como principais premissas a formação das mulheres e a criação de condições reais para sua autonomia. Buscam também formas de erradicar a violência doméstica contra a mulher, ainda muito predominante nas comunidades indígenas. 

Além desse contato inicial, participei de outros dois grandes momentos em território zapatista. Um deles foi a noite de celebração dos dez anos de criação dos caracóis, com atos políticos e culturais abertos ao público em geral. Um evento emocionante que reuniu centenas de zapatistas, intelectuais, integrantes de diversos movimentos sociais, cidadãos mexicanos e estrangeiros. Todos juntos em um ato de respeito às bandeiras do México e do EZLN, com discurso em defesa de uma vida mais justa, digna e humana, baseado na crença de que um mundo melhor é possível. E depois da solenidade mais formal, a madrugada foi atravessada por inúmeros shows de música, o que eles chamaram de “woodstock autônomo”. 

Outro contato foi na Cideci / Universidad de La Tierra, durante a recepção das caravanas de alunos que iriam participar das “escuelas zapatistas por la libertad”. Cerca de 2 mil jovens provenientes do México e de outros países fizeram um intercâmbio cultural de uma semana em casas de famílias zapatistas, para conhecer como vivem e estudar suas formas de organização política e ideológica, que sobrevivem há vinte anos de resistência e autonomia. 

Há quem diga que o zapatismo morreu. Muitos defendem que foi um breve confronto armado de rebeldes indígenas encapuzados no sul do México, liderados pelo enigmático subcomandante Marcos, com inexpressivas reverberações políticas. Contrário a essa ideia reducionista, pude vivenciar, durante a minha passagem por território zapatista, um movimento de massa vigoroso, pulsante nos seus ideais e, sobretudo, pacífico. Um movimento à contramão extremamente necessário, se pensarmos as ações devastas resultantes do nosso sistema capital. Um movimento que continua despertando interesse em pessoas mais conscientes e que desejam lutar por justiça e pela soberania do povo. Principalmente o povo tido há muito tempo como colonizado, destituído de seus direitos à terra, à liberdade, à autonomia. 

E esse ímpeto está vivo nas pessoas mais interessantes que circulam e residem em San Cristóbal de las Casas. A maioria dos moradores, incluindo os estrangeiros que foram “ficando”, mantém vínculos com os e as “compas”, como são carinhosamente chamados os companheiros zapatistas. A cidade, de arquitetura colonial e noites agitadas, aparentemente parece ser apenas mais um ponto turístico com grande fluxo de visitantes na alta temporada. Mas, na verdade, abriga este espírito revolucionário e nos motiva a pensar: sim, um mundo melhor e diferente é possível.

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