Eu, em Cuba!
Minha mãe sempre teve vontade de conhecer Cuba, para ver como é a vida em um país comunista. E resolveu me levar para passar as férias na ilha de Fidel — obviamente eu odiei a ideia, afinal meu aniversário cairia justamente em um dos dias da viagem… Mas, com toda a empolgação e a insistência dela, não tive como dizer não. Saímos de Cumbica no dia 13 de janeiro, pela viação Copa Airlines, e pousamos no Panamá para pegar outro voo até Havana. Ao todo, foram 8 horas de viagem.
Minha primeira impressão começou no táxi que pegamos do aeroporto até a casa da família onde nos hospedaríamos: achei um horror, queria sair correndo e voltar. Só via um monte de casas velhas e tudo abandonado. Imaginei: “O que vou fazer aqui durante 28 dias?” O pior: não tinha internet, já que o serviço é muito, muito lento. Mas como já estava lá, resolvi entrar na onda da minha mãe, e iniciamos nossas férias!
O primeiro passeio foi a pé pela cidade. Visitamos a Av. Malecón, de onde, no final da via, de uma mureta, avistei o mar. Nessa praia não tem areia e é impossível nadar. Depois fomos para o Centro, na Havana Velha. Conheci duas igrejas, o Museu de Belas Artes, com pinturas de cubanos e algumas obras de renomados pintores internacionais, e a casa do escritor Ernest Hemingway.
Fomos almoçar num restaurante em Havana, onde praticamente não há carne de vaca, só frango e peixe. Claro que, tendo muito dinheiro, fica fácil encontrar qualquer coisa que se queira. Lá há duas moedas: a dos turistas e a dos cubanos, sendo que a do turista é doze vezes mais valiosa.
Depois de cinco dias em Havana, fomos para Cienfuegos, uma cidade onde nadei com os golfinhos; de resto não havia nada para fazer.
Depois de dois dias fui para Trinidad, a cidade de que mais gostei! Ela é inteira de paralelepípedo, toda preservada, e à noite ouvíamos salsas tocadas pelas ruas. Lá pude sentir as belezas do mar do Caribe. As praias, distantes da cidade, são maravilhosas. A cor do mar é translúcida, e pude mergulhar — outra experiência inesquecível! Também fui a Serra de Trinidad, onde andei a cavalo e passei por uma cachoeira maravilhosa. Conhecemos uma família de franceses, duas brasileiras e dois italianos na cidade. Com os italianos fomos em uma balada dentro de uma caverna. Um lugar estranho: logo na entrada, homens sem camisa levantam com a boca uma mesa onde uma mulher sentada está segurando uma cobra. Para entrar pagamos com peso cubano, embora a música fosse eletrônica.
De Trinidad fomos para Camaguey, cidade onde não há muito o que fazer, mas cujas praias são maravilhosas! Visitei museus e ouvi músicas nos barzinhos. A essa altura já estava superbronzeada!
Depois de quatro dias fomos para Santiago de Cuba, uma cidade muito grande e muito quente. Lá conheci várias bandas de salsa e a casa onde Fidel Castro viveu com sua família. Em Santiago de Cuba há muitos museus, inclusive, o Museu do Carnaval. Os cubanos amam o Brasil, nossas novelas fazem um tremendo sucesso, além de adorarem o samba!
No dia 1.º de fevereiro fui para Varadero, uma cidade totalmente turística. Praticamente só há hotéis, e lá conheci vários brasileiros, alguns eram artistas que estavam participando de uma exposição de gravuras. Meu aniversário comemorei no hotel, com turistas libaneses que moram no Canadá. Ganhei deles um chocolate, artigo dificílimo de encontrar em Cuba.
Depois de uma semana, voltei para Havana e conheci o Bar Submarino Amarelo, uma home-nagem aos Beatles e onde várias bandas cover se apresentam. Conheci um cubano que morou por dois anos no Brasil e hoje é gerente de um restaurante em Havana, onde eu comi o melhor frango da viagem — também dele ganhei um chocolate.
Quando você compra alguma coisa e chora por um desconto, os comerciantes pedem algo em troca; coisas simples, como um sabonete, por exemplo. Os cubanos são muito simpáticos com os turistas, eles se vestem de um jeito muito simples — só as pessoas que trabalham com turismo são mais bem-vestidas. Os taxistas adoram enganar os turistas, aumentando o preço do passeio, por isso sempre é bom ficar ligado. O artesanato predomina no comércio, e o trabalho mais bem remunerado é de diretor de escola e dos que vivem do turismo. O que me chamou a atenção é que muitos dos taxistas têm curso superior. Conheci taxistas médicos, químicos, engenheiros… Todo mundo fuma charuto e toma rum, e as pessoas nunca falam mal do regime, embora sejam loucas para sair de Cuba.
As crianças são diferenciadas na escola pela cor da roupa: os menores usam uniforme vermelho, os que estão no curso fundamental, amarelo, e os maiores usam uniforme azul. Elas brincam na rua: jogam beisebol — esporte que aprenderam com os americanos.
Parece que os cubanos vivem em outro século: as casas, os carros e os eletrodomésticos são antigos, a programação da TV é a de canais venezuelanos e o sinal do celular pega apenas em algumas cidades. Ligar para o exterior é caríssimo!
No final, agradeci à minha mãe, pois amei a viagem — até chorei na hora de ir embora. Conheci lugares lindos, totalmente fora da minha realidade. Posso dizer que voltei diferente dessas férias, pois hoje percebo todas as facilidades de um país capitalista como Brasil: do papel higiênico no banheiro à simples compra de um shampoo — produto dificílimo de encontrar em Cuba. Gostaria muito de voltar para lá — mas só para passear, pois não gostaria de morar em um país comunista
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