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As ilhas de Malta

As ilhas de Malta

A apenas 93km da Ilha de Sicília, na Itália, estão as Ilhas Maltesas, um arquipélago no Mar Mediterrâneo. Durante um mês pude desbravar os 316 Km2 de Malta, um dos menores países da Europa e com a maior concentração histórica do planeta.

A começar pelo Hipogeu de Hal Saflieni, o único templo subterrâneo pré-histórico, formado em três níveis distintos, ou os templos Megalíticos de Malta, estruturas de pedras mais antigas e bem conservadas do mundo. 

Pela localização ímpar, entre Europa e África, Malta foi um ponto estratégico para muitos povos: fenícios (800 a.C. a 480 a.C), romanos, árabes, mouros, normandos, aragoneses, a Espanha dos Habsburgos, os Cavaleiros de São João, franceses e, por fim, britânicos. 

Toda essa exposição originou a língua maltesa, com muita influência árabe e impossível de se entender! Felizmente, a maioria da população fala inglês e italiano. 

A passagem dos árabes pela ilha está também na edificação, toda construída de calcário, minério abundante no arquipélago. 

A gastronomia de Malta é plural. Podemos encontrar desde as tradicionais pizzas italianas — com toques maltês — até comidas árabes mais sofisticadas, ricas em especiarias, como açafrão e curry.

A ilha não é produtiva, embora na passagem dos romanos tenha prosperado com a produção de azeitona, trigo, mel e uva — ingredientes que até hoje fazem parte da culinária maltesa. A maioria dos produtos vem da Itália, embora Malta venha produzindo os próprios vinhos.

Andar pelas ruas das cidades do arquipélago parece um passeio por uma imensa catedral — a população é 98% católica. Na ilha há mais de 365 igrejas — uma para cada dia do ano — e em cada beco, vila ou esquina, está um santo. Aliás, cada bairro tem seu santo específico e a comemoração de seu dia é em grande estilo. Os moradores participam efetivamente da festa, que tem suas próprias cores e estandarte.

Passei pela capital Valletta, declarada pela Unesco Património Mundial por ser uma das zonas de maior concentração histórica do mundo; por Mdina, também chamada Cidade Velha, antiga capital (até 1090) e, como demonstra o próprio nome, totalmente influenciada pela cultura Árabe — embora tenha em sua praça central uma igreja católica em vez de uma mesquita. 

Essa região havia sido habitada pelos Fenícios, que iniciaram sua fortificação no ano 1000 a.C., mas, a cidade se desenvolveu mesmo a partir do Império Romano, no século 3, e seguiu sendo a capital de Malta por todo o período Medieval, que incluiu uma ocupação árabe. 

Até que, no século 16, com a chegada dos Cavaleiros da Ordem de São João e a transferência da capital para Valletta, Mdina parece ter parado no tempo. Fui também ao parque temático do Marinheiro Popeye, o Danish Village, criado com os cenários do filme que foi rodado na baia Anchor — todos os passeios com a vista para o Mar Mediterrâneo!  

As águas são de um azul espetacular e as praias, frequentadas pelas famílias, são mais para tomar sol e praticar esportes do que entrar no mar, que é muito frio. Existe uma lenda Fenícia que até hoje influencia os pescadores: em todas as proas dos barcos são pintados dois olhos para não se perder o rumo e a direção de volta ao porto da aldeia Marsaxlokk.

Toda essa mistura cultural faz de Malta o melhor lugar para se fazer um intercâmbio para aprender inglês, o que agita as ruas de Valletta, que à noite é pura festa: bares com música ao vivo, danças e jovens de todas as partes do mundo.

Conhecer Malta é uma experiência extraordinária, com suas diversas matizes culturais, clima tranquilo — embora com locais pulsantes —, onde o moderno e o antigo convivem harmonicamente sob a brisa de uma ilha que é vizinha do Ocidente e Oriente.

O lugar é tão mágico que há até uma passagem na Bíblia sobre Malta: foi o local onde o apóstolo Paulo teria vivido por algum tempo. Ele seria o responsável por converter os habitantes da ilha no cristianismo, atualmente considerada o país mais católico do mundo.

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