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As belezas do Nordeste

As belezas do Nordeste

Decidimos fazer uma viagem pelo litoral do Nordeste de carro, partindo de São Paulo. O objetivo era chegar até a praia da Pipa no Rio Grande do Norte. Tínhamos alguns outros locais definidos para passar, mas o resto ia depender do tempo e da sorte.

Partimos em três e mais toda a bagagem para acampar por praticamente 20 dias, em um corsa flex, sendo que no meio da jornada embarcaria mais uma integrante (e sua bagagem). Saímos de São Paulo, a uma da madrugada do sábado. O primeiro destino era a Praia do Espelho, na Bahia.

Depois de 17 horas, parando somente para abastecer o carro, finalmente chegamos! Começamos muito bem! A lua estava cheia, somente nossas duas barracas em um lindo gramado, com vista para o mar. A praia estava praticamente deserta, o sol brilhando de dia e a lua refletida no mar de noite, fazendo jus ao nome da praia.

No segundo dia, já descansados, resolvemos fazer uma caminhada pelas praias em direção à Caraiva, pois me lembrava que havia uma lagoa de água doce deliciosa no meio do caminho.

Para minha surpresa, a lagoa foi invadida pelo mar e praticamente secou. Conseguimos boiar um pouquinho, pois a água batia no joelho. Fomos passar o dia em Trancoso e compramos um belo peixe para fazer na nossa super churrasqueira!

Foi difícil partir da nossa primeira “casa”, mas como ainda tínhamos muito chão pela frente, não podíamos nos apegar aos lugares. Fomos, então, para Boipeba, uma ilha linda ao Sul de Salvador, onde ficamos duas noites; um dos dias passamos em Moreré, que é uma praia paradisíaca da ilha, com piscinas de corais que parecem banheiras!

Passamos rapidamente por Salvador, andamos pelo Pelourinho, mas não estávamos no clima de cidade, e o trânsito (e o calor) que pegamos para conseguir sair da cidade nos aborreceu um bocado.Chegamos na Praia do Forte, e como só íamos pernoitar, resolvemos ficar no Hostel. Um pouco de civilização foi bom, dormimos em camas e jantamos em um restaurante. Visitamos o projeto Tamar e ainda conseguimos aproveitar o pôr do sol na praia.

No dia seguinte, iríamos nos despedir da Bahia. Mas no caminho até Sergipe, de repente ficamos somente com a quarta marcha do carro. Simplesmente não engatava nem desengatava. A única opção era seguir em frente, pois não havia nenhum lugar adequado para parar. Como era sábado, praticamente hora do almoço, a nossa preocupação era encontrar uma concessionária aberta, pois o carro tinha acabado de voltar da revisão. Depois de muitos telefonemas para a GM de São Paulo e de Aracaju, o pessoal ficou nos esperando e em menos de meia hora o carro estava pronto para continuar. Queríamos passar pela foz do Rio São Francisco e apesar de não sabermos se realmente valia a pena, resolvemos arriscar. Íamos parando nas cidadezinhas para pegar as orientações pois, pelo nosso guia, não sabíamos direito qual era o caminho certo. Até que uma hora chegamos na praia. Falaram que, se seguíssemos beirando o mar, iríamos chegar no rio. Só tínhamos que tomar cuidado com a maré, pois do lado havia dunas, que com certeza nosso carro não conseguiria passar. Quase desistimos pois o ponteiro da gasolina estava baixo e o rio não chegava nunca, mas de repente avistamos um ‘mar’ na nossa frente. Era fim de tarde. Ver aquele ‘riozão’ desaguando no mar e poder dar um mergulho, foi uma benção. Por mais que ele tenha vários trechos degradados, a foz do ‘velho Chico’ é um lugar muito especial! Mas claro que nada é tão fácil assim; quando fomos ver o carro, tinha afundado na areia! Ainda bem que tinha mais algumas pessoas para nos ajudar!

Seguimos para Alagoas, pois perto de Coruípe, havia um conhecido que morava em uma fazenda de coco, onde iríamos tentar pernoitar. Por sorte ele estava lá e nos acolheu muito bem. Como o coqueiral dava na praia, resolvemos acampar lá. Mas quando chegamos o vento estava muito forte e achamos melhor ir mais para o meio.

Partimos cedo com o destino meio incerto, tínhamos como possibilidade alguma praias ao norte de Maceió. A primeira em que paramos, Carro Quebrado, era muito bonita, mas não era o melhor lugar para acampar. Seguimos rumo a São Miguel dos Milagres, com várias vilas na beira da estrada e praticamente nenhum lugar turístico. Achamos uma pousada linda, mas que não era para o nosso bolso. Por sorte, uma moça que trabalhava lá tinha uma casa com um quintal grande e acertamos de acampar lá!

Todas as praias da região são praticamente inexploradas pelo turismo, sendo que a praia da Lage é uma das mais bonitas. Tanto que, apesar de ter várias fazendas de coco, não encontramos nenhum lugar que vendesse ele gelado, pois isso é coisa de turista! Fizemos também um passeio por um rio onde tem peixes-boi, que são muito simpáticos. Fomos até Maragogi e depois seguimos para Pernambuco. Queríamos acampar na Praia do Carneiro, mas infelizmente a praia é dominada por empreendimentos que não nos permitiram acampar. Tivemos que voltar para Tamandaré e como não havia camping, alugamos um chalé.

Partimos para Paraíba, passamos pela praia de Tambaba e pela ponta do Seixas. O nosso plano era ficar em um lugar mais isolado. Passamos pela Baía da Traição, mas não era bem aquilo que estávamos procurando. Resolvemos seguir para Barra de Camaratuba. Tivemos que passar por uma reserva indígena e, por causa da estrada arenosa, o carro atolou e precisamos da ajuda dos locais. Para cruzar o rio, pegamos uma balsa de um carro só, que era empurrada manualmente. Até que finalmente chegamos. Praia de ondas grandes, propícia para surfistas e commuito vento, que está transformando o pequeno vilarejo em uma grande instalação de turbinas eólicas.

Finalmente, partimos rumo ao nosso destino final! Chegamos à Praia da Pipa na véspera do ano novo. E a cidade já estava lotada de turistas, sendo muitos estrangeiros. Os campings e as pousadas estavam lotados e, quando tinham vagas, o preço era simplesmente absurdo. Achamos uma casa que estava terminando de ser construída e conseguimos negociar a nossa estadia, mesmo com o pessoal terminando de instalar portas, janelas…

Apesar de ser o lugar mais cheio que pegamos na viagem, as falésias e as praias compensaram, em algumas dava pra ver até golfinhos!

Diante de tantos mil quilômetros que teríamos que enfrentar novamente para voltar, resolvemos mandar o carro de caminhão cegonha e ir de avião. Voltamos para Recife, onde despachamos o carro e pegamos o voo para São Paulo. Com isso economizamos uns dias de estrada e ganhamos algumas horas de sono para descansarmos da nossa inesquecível viagem de férias.

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